Martin Meikas

In the world of Martin Meikas the phrase “what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger” comes to mind.

Despite the obstacles and challenges that might be in his way, he always has a positive approach saying they are “a great motivator for finding new solutions.” 

This could also be applied to Martin’s cooking style, finding ways of preparing food that are both unique and different.

“When I started cooking, I was bothered by the fact that it didn’t matter where you went, the food was the same everywhere,” he said.

“I didn’t find any excitement in it, and I realised that you have to approach food in a different way, create your own kitchen, your own dishes.”

Practising what he preaches, he takes great pleasure in finding an underused ingredient and giving them a new life.  For example, I take the most boring ingredient, celeriac, which neither I nor anyone else likes, nobody orders it in the restaurant,” he says with a smile.

“I dissect it, use the peel and contents, make a fermented juice and then a sauce from it. I make the crust part of the texture.’’

Textures and temperature and not wasting any part of an ingredient are at the heart of what he does.

Martin, who after high school studied catering management at the Kuressaare Regional Training Centre, had three options for the future: Start repairing cars, start building or get into cooking.

‘’I don’t have a heartwarming story about how I held on to my mother’s apron strings and wanted to become a chef. Everything went in a very practical way and here I am,’’ he reflects.

He started his culinary journey at Pädaste Manor, winning countless titles along the way.

He then founded and was head chef at the legendary Estonian flagship eatery, Restaurant Ö, where everyone believed it would only be a matter of time before Michelin came calling.

That was of course before the pandemic began, putting paid to those ambitions and to the restaurant itself. Lesser men might have crumbled but Martin took a philosophical approach – resulting in him opening a new restaurant called 02 in the centre of Tallinn

‘’The concept is casual fine dining,” he said.

“ Since the restaurant is located in the middle of office buildings, during the day we offer lunch and in the evening we change service clothes, music, lighting and menu. “The restaurant works on the zero waste principle, respecting the seasons and Estonian small producers,’’

“Although every new venture is accompanied by a slight natural nervousness, it is also very exciting.”