Juhan Heinsalu

For Juhan Heinsalu, chef and co-owner of Mimosa restaurant in Nõmme, Tallinn, the art of cooking is a mix of poetry, artistry and science.

The mere sight of ingredients conjurs up a whole train of thought and that –coupled with the need to understand the processes of cooking – is how the perfect dishes are created.

’Chefs are like poets or artists,’’ said Juhan.

‘’For example, you can see celery in a picture. You look at it, it has a root, it has a stem. You think how do root vegetables taste? How does celeriac taste? One is juicier, the other more crunchy. It’s like a game is going on in your head immediately. You visualize it and you start the so-called poetry.’’

Although Juhan joined a cooking school in Põltsamaa, he confesses it was something at that time he didn’t have much interest in.

It was only after being given the freedom to experiment that it ignited a passion for food, which grew once he went to increase his knowledge by studying food technology.

“It is important to know the biochemical processes, why and how the content of food works,’’ he said.

Avoiding food waste is a high priority, going to great lengths to ensure as much of every ingredient as possible is used.

He also believes that simple is best, allowing whatever he is cooking with to be the star of the show.

Using herbs and seasoning to enhance natural flavours is right at the heart of everything he does.

‘’I don’t see the need to over-flavour the food. I prefer that a person understands what he has on his plate and what he eats, not that the food looks the same but tastes different,” he said.

Juhan is keen to ensure that those who may have intolerances or allergies do not miss out, creating different versions of his dishes so that no diner needs to miss out.

When not in the kitchen Juhan spends time with the Defence Union which he joined two years ago.

“It’s interesting to be the smallest nut in the chain of command who is directed, and it’s very exciting to watch from the sidelines how this direction works,” he said.

Despite spending his free time working in a military organisation, he hasn’t let that rigid discipline spill over into his kitchen.

‘’I feel that I have changed over time,” he said.

“At the beginning of my career, I was more demanding, but I’ve realized that it doesn’t work. More and more I let people and myself experiment and make mistakes. Through this, people learn and develop and only become better over time.’’